Where do I get them? Turn In Concepts - Ohio Based performance company

What do the braces do? Stiffen the chassis, aids suspension, creates a better handling Impreza

Where do they install?  Tucked just behind your fender, tie the front clip of the chassis to the main body

How do I install them?  Right! Let's get started!

First off, you do not need to remove the fender to install these. (at least I did not)

You DO NEED to take your time, and be patient with the removal of the old braces, and installation of the new braces - rush through this, and you could risk damage to your very fragile, very thin... fender.

My thoughts on performance gains:

My car setup:

Whiteline Group 4 coilover kit, STi Group N Strut tops,

19mm front sway bar, IPD 21mm rear sway bar & endlinks

Pretty impressive results! The car seems much more stable under load

Hard cornering is no longer 'loopy' loose or sloppy under full load in any way.

Car responds well  - tighter than previous, corners like it's on rails.

Will this be the same result for everyone? Hard to say.

But I did note a significant improvement in handling.

I find it similar to adding a roll bar/roll cage in that area.

It has changed the handling characteristics of the car - stiffer, more controlled, better feedback

I would recommend this modification to anyone looking to better their chassis,

better their suspension, better the overall handling of the car.

Good components to add along with this modification?

STi Group N top mounts, "aftermarket" (beefier) struts and springs, larger sway bars.

Tools I recommend:

Flathead screwdriver

Phillips Screwdriver

10mm socket w/extension

14mm open end wrench

14mm ratcheting wrench

1/4 " drive air ratchet (if using air tools)

1. Get the car up in the air. Be it a jack WITH JACKSTANDS or on a car lift

(never work on the ground without using Jackstands, it's simply not safe!)

2. Remove front wheels

3. Remove the fender liners.

On this car (the 1998 to 2001 Impreza), the fender/wheel liners are broken in to 2 pieces.

We only need to remove the Rear/back section of the Fender liner.

Study the trail of fender liner clips, begin removing (see photos 3,4 below)

Remove these using your screwdrivers. Be careful not to break the clips!

4. Remove 10mm bolt at the top center of the fender liner arch (extension needed see photo)

5. Once the fender liner has been freed, set it aside (photo 6)

6. Next, remove the screws holding the Airbag wiring harness in place (see photos 7, 8)

Swinging the airbag wiring harness' to the side will allow for a lot more working room.

The fender brace bolts are very hard to get at as it is. You need all the room you can get!

(1) Photos of the fender braces as arrived from Turn In Concepts

(2) Beautiful craftsmanship

6061  - TIG Welded

0.6 of 1 lb each

(3) after jacking up the car (use jack stands please!) and removing the front wheels, remove all of the fender clips on the fender liner

(4) there will be several.

The 2001 RS, has a 2 piece fender liner...

We need to remove the back 1/2 of the liner as shown

(5) Very top portion of the fender liner has a 10mm bolt holding it in place...

We need to remove that too

(6) Now you can plainly see the factory steel cowl brace tucked up in the fender line

(7) To allow for a little more working room, remove the screws securing the airbag wiring

(8) Once you've disconnected the airbag wiring bracket, move the line to the side, allowing for much more working room

Continuing along....

I did not need to open the door or remove the fender in order to get these bolts loosened.

I merely reached inside the fender edge with my 14mm and broke the bolts loose.

I also did not need to use any PB Blast, or even a breaker bar. 

But, these are things you may need if you live in a "salty" climate.

7. It is easiest to remove the "bottom" bolts first. Crack them loose, give them a few turns with the ratcheting wrench and then remove.  (see photo 9). I was actually able to get my 1/4" air drive ratchet w/14mm short socket on the lower bolts.

8. Top bolts are much tougher.  Open end wrench, a few swear words, and a lot of patience.

9. Once removed, install the new braces in reverse order.

10. First thing you want to do with the new brace, is line them up with the bolt holes. 

Install the bolts FINGER TIGHT.  Only once you are certain the brace is lined up properly, should you tighten the bolts down. (see photos 13 to 18)

11. Note photos 15, 16, and 17.  When attempting to toque the bolts down, I discovered they simply just did not want to go. Something was wrong. I removed the new brace from the car, held it up against my factory support and .. oh... okay! the bolt holes were slightly off (see photo 16, 17)  The only thing that I could come up with is that these braces were made off of the GD/GG chassis (2002 - on) and not my 2001 GC/GM chassis.  The braces must differ if only slightly.

12. I drilled out the holes a bit (not shown) then reinstalled the brace, test fitting all 4 bolts (photo 18) and finally, torqued them into place

(9) Airbag line off to the side, now you can begin removing the factory fender brace

(10) there is not much room to work - use your wrenches, be patient and be careful

(11) Factory steel piece vs the very strong, very well crafted aluminum replacement unit

(12) install the new braces in reverse order

(13) Again, not much room to work with... install one bolt at a time

(14) keep them loose until you are certain you've got all 4 bolts started

(15) case in point after getting 3 of the 4 bolts finger tight... the 4th WOULD NOT GO... WHY?

(16) the new braces did not quite match up with my OE Factory Brace

(17) When lining the 2 up on each other, you can clearly see the difference. I broke out the drill... elongated the holes on the new brace, and we were back in business

(18) Once the brace is lined up properly, tighten down all 4 bolts...  no torque specs.. but a couple of 'grunts' should do!